Skop Right Now, Thank Ye Very Much

From the shores of North Macedonia’s largest lake, we made the bumpy three-hour drive northeast to its largest city, and capital, Skopje. Pronounced Skop-yay, this city of half a million may not appear to be the most geographically significant municipality when looking at its landlocked location on a map however, you’d be partially wrong. Situated almost exactly halfway between Athens and the Balkan megalopolis of Belgrade has ensured its importance as a centre of trade and commerce. Being built at the confluence of three rivers has also helped in this regard as well as producing lovely waterfront walkways alongside modern art installations, floating pirate ship restaurants, and statues, lots, and lots of statues. Such an obsession the city has with monuments of all kinds that I’m absolutely certain that, had I been born here, I would have at least three to my name already: ‘For work proliferating the exposure of Marmite to all Macedonians’.

The almost total destruction of the city by an earthquake in 1963 meant that a comprehensive redesign was necessary with city planners taking the opportunity to construct wide boulevards and areas with low population densities to limit the impact of potential future earthquakes. This was definitely a noticeable feature as the vibrant buzz of a bustling modern metropolis was often lacking leaving a rather subdued impression of emptiness, even in the central square where an enormous monument dedicated to Macedonia’s favourite son, Alexander the Great, stands proud.

The one district that didn’t feel vacuous, though, was the Old Bazaar. Ottoman-built narrow alleyways, mini mosques tightly packed between buildings, market stalls and tea stands, Albanian flags everywhere (for 30% of North Macedonian citizens are ethnic Albanian), this zone was right in our wheelhouse. So much so that the country’s first craft microbrewery just so happened to exist right in its heart and, as we passed, was crying out for thirsty Welsh beerophiles to consume its hoppy amber solutions. We duly obliged. As the bar was located on the second floor, it also offered a mystical view of the humming slender side streets just below, something which fondly reminded me of my favourite back-alley bars in Japan, and even more so after seven bottles of Skopsko.

As already established, Macedonians attach great importance to memorialising their notables, Alexander has everything from street names to post boxes named after him despite being half Greek (a sacrilegious view in these parts), including one individual who gets full veneration that may surprise a few: Mother Teresa. Claimed by more countries than the South China Sea, MT certainly had associations with Albania, India, Serbia, and even Ireland although her birthplace cannot be argued over, it was right in the centre of Skopje, next to the Holiday Inn. A memorial house was built a short amble away at the location where she was baptised and is well worth a visit although the slightly bizarre design of the building itself hasn’t pleased all locals:

“It is like someone tastelessly dressed, arrayed in gumboots, lace stockings, a brocade skirt and a Chinese silk shirt, all heavily accented with bling and what appears to be a cosmonaut’s helmet. If it weren’t designed to commemorate such an important figure, this building might have gotten away with its inoffensive zaniness. But, as it turns out, it is hugely offensive. It offends with its skewed selection procedure, with its pretentiousness, with its arrogance, with its tastelessness. But, most of all, it offends by totally ignoring any architectural correlation with the life and work of Mother Teresa. Will Skopje get another chance? After this, it does not deserve one.” (Pencić, 2009)

While I was on an errand the following day, the subject of my next post, Lowri went on a hike to the top of the ancient Skopje Fortress, a site located at the highest point in the city and visible from almost anywhere. Akin to Carmarthen Castle, not much remains of the old girl but the view from the enduring wall still commands an extremely satisfying view of the downtown area, especially on a blue-sky day as we were treated to throughout our visit. This, we discovered, was highly unusual in January as the country ranks as one of the most polluted in the world and second-most in Europe, behind only Bosnia and Herzegovina. Who could’ve guessed?

Based on the hope that we don’t develop any pulmonary diseases from visiting both of these nations and aren’t able to leave, this would be our penultimate Balkan country, or last if you ask Djokovic (you’ll read why soon). Macedonia afforded us a truly pleasant experience that neither touched our favourite Balkan destination, Montenegro, or our least, Serbia. If a peaceful search for Orthodox churches is your thing, or if monuments to historical librarians get you off, this country should be top of your list. If not, however, and you want somewhere laced with controversy and stimulation, maybe our next destination would be better suited…

J