The Mount of Monte Titano
Following an introductory peep around the striking streets of the Sammarinese capital the previous afternoon, we were up with the first cable car the following morn, sashaying our way to the top of Monte Titano for a full day of hedonistic exploration. We followed the ancient city’s winding lanes up to our first stop, the grandly named Basilica di San Marino. Slightly grander by name than by nature, the site has been home to various religious constructions as far back as the fourth century, when the first shrine dedicated to Saint Marinus, the country’s founding father, was built. The most recent iteration, erected in 1836, may not be as impressive as the basilicas in Florence or Milan but given that it’s perched on a cliff edge, they’ve done a decent job.
To the very top of the country we went and to the micronation’s three defensive towers which, rather fittingly, are named the Three Towers of San Marino. The Guaita, or First Tower, is the oldest of the three, construction on it started in the 11th century, and its pinnacle commands views that could adorn the cover of any Lonely Planet guidebook. Lowri, fearful of falling through a Medieval window, remained on solid ground as I hauled myself up the copious, rickety ladders to its upper tier and beheld the splendid Sammarinese slates of nearby rooftops and the spectacular, rural scenery all around. It also allowed glimpses of the other two sacred towers, iconic symbols of ‘Libertas’ (liberty) that San Marino and its people are particularly proud of.
We continued tracking the ridge to take in towers two and three, one of which comprised a spectacular collection of Medieval weaponry that Andrew Tate would be proud of, before reaching the furthest point of the bluff and the very end of the country itself. Upon returning to the centre, we were granted access to the Grand and General Council of San Marino (or the parliament building), where its sixty elected officials debate which one of them would go in goal for the next international against Estonia or who would represent them at Eurovision this year if Flo Rida was unavailable. Extraordinarily, tourists are granted access to the primary debating chamber when it’s not in session and so we had a unique, first-hand view of the cut and thrust of Sammarinese politics, which was absolutely thrilling.
As the United States was one of the first major superpowers to recognise the country’s status as a separate sovereign nation all the way back in 1861, nods to their gratitude can be sought everywhere from busts of Abe (who was given honorary citizenship for his role in the process) to supersized sodas in the Shake Shack next door. This ‘special relationship’ has endured to this day, with San Marino consistently supporting United Stater foreign policy positions as well as U.S. candidates to significant international organizations such as the Association of Professional Elvis Presley Tribute Artists (APEPTA) and the Dill Pickle Club.
With the sun setting behind the splendid Palazzo Pubblico, we decided to invest in a single full-bodied beverage at a nearby eatery and bask in the fast-fading sunlight, ruminating on our experiences in the oft-overlooked destination. The country has swiftly risen to the top of my newly formed, and quickly forgotten, micronation rankings as it is an extremely pleasant place for a pleasant stroll and a pleasant Aperol spritz among the pleasantest of people. You may choke on your oven-baked snail stuffed with garlic butter upon receiving the bill, however, but the same could be said of Andorra, the Vatican, and most certainly Monaco.
Thus, our six-week Italian/Vatican/Sammarinese journey was at an end. Although, we would not be returning to the wonderful Wetherspoon’s of Wales just yet, oh no. Just ahead of us lay our next elaborate escapade: the Western Balkans! Yes, that’s right, we will attempt to visit all eight countries in the region during the dead of winter. That may mean Christmas in Kosovo and the New Year in North Macedonia! What a treat. See you in Slovenia!
J
